Warning: Science Content!
Primer for PVC serves almost the same purpose as priming in painting applications. Paint primer prepares the surface and gives the paint molecules a nice material to adhere to. PVC primer cleans debris, then 'digests' the surface molecules of the PVC part, so that when the solvent/cement is applied, it can easily dissolve the outer layers.
This stuff contains 13-17% Methyl Ethyl Ketone, 70-80% Acetone (dimethyl ketone), 5-10% cyclohexanone, and negligible amounts of other nasty chemicals.
Open the can of (purple) primer. If it's the first time it's been opened, you might need a really big guy or a pipe wrench to break the seal. Most of the time, the swab is built right into the top.
Pull out the applicator, which is attached to the lid, and dab it against the side of the can to let the excess run out. This stuff runs like water and stains EVERYTHING. It will probably saturate the top of the can.
Cover each surface to be welded on both parts thoroughly. Just be careful about runs. If you are doing severalf fittings, you can go ahead and prime everything, it's perfectly fine to prime parts ahead of time, so long as they don't get dirty before cementing.
Priming is a chemical process. The solvent (acetone and MEK) molecules diffuse into and are absorbed by the surface of the PVC plastic. This roughs up the shiny surface from the molding process, and swells the plastic, loosening the long polymer chains. Both of these processes contribute to a strong weld. The primer is extremely fast at absorbing and evaporating, so the plastic won't be 'wet to the touch' for very long. However, it is important for the plastic to be chemically 'wet' with absorbed solvent, so I would not let the primed parts sit for more than 5 minutes before cementing. It can't hurt to re-prime.
Some people claim it's not necessary to prime. I'd personally rather not find out the hard way.
See external link:
http://newsite.oatey.com/Channel/FAQ.html#Q09
Primer for PVC serves almost the same purpose as priming in painting applications. Paint primer prepares the surface and gives the paint molecules a nice material to adhere to. PVC primer cleans debris, then 'digests' the surface molecules of the PVC part, so that when the solvent/cement is applied, it can easily dissolve the outer layers.
This stuff contains 13-17% Methyl Ethyl Ketone, 70-80% Acetone (dimethyl ketone), 5-10% cyclohexanone, and negligible amounts of other nasty chemicals.
Open the can of (purple) primer. If it's the first time it's been opened, you might need a really big guy or a pipe wrench to break the seal. Most of the time, the swab is built right into the top.
Pull out the applicator, which is attached to the lid, and dab it against the side of the can to let the excess run out. This stuff runs like water and stains EVERYTHING. It will probably saturate the top of the can.
Cover each surface to be welded on both parts thoroughly. Just be careful about runs. If you are doing severalf fittings, you can go ahead and prime everything, it's perfectly fine to prime parts ahead of time, so long as they don't get dirty before cementing.
Priming is a chemical process. The solvent (acetone and MEK) molecules diffuse into and are absorbed by the surface of the PVC plastic. This roughs up the shiny surface from the molding process, and swells the plastic, loosening the long polymer chains. Both of these processes contribute to a strong weld. The primer is extremely fast at absorbing and evaporating, so the plastic won't be 'wet to the touch' for very long. However, it is important for the plastic to be chemically 'wet' with absorbed solvent, so I would not let the primed parts sit for more than 5 minutes before cementing. It can't hurt to re-prime.
Some people claim it's not necessary to prime. I'd personally rather not find out the hard way.
See external link:
http://newsite.oatey.com/Channel/FAQ.html#Q09
Discussion in 'Plumbing Forum, Professional & DIY Advice' started by froddan, Jul 30, 2007.
Oatey Purple Primer contains Acetone, Cyclohexanone, Tetrahydrofuran, and Methyl ethyl ketone. Oatey Regular Clear PVC Cement contains Tetrahydrofuran, Acetone, PVC Resin, Cyclohexanone, and Methyl ethyl ketone. I'm out in the Styx and have used the ol lady's fingernail polish remover to thin the PVC glue. The Oatey 8 oz. PVC Clear Solvent Cement is specially formulated to bond PVC pipe and fittings up to 6 in. Dia with interference fit. The solvent cement works by softening pipe and fitting surfaces to create a strong bond.
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